Valentine's to Africa

Because this is Valentine's season, I wanted to pick an appropriate topic--but what? A play or book about love in Africa? An exhibition about couples? All those were possible, but I decided to go in a different direction: architecture.Traditionally, couples in Africa don't share a bedroom--the husband has his room or small house, and the wife or wives their own. Only those confined to a room and a parlour have a common bed, and improved fortunes mean a split into separate domains. Historically this had numerous reasons behind it--children usually slept with their mother, and men had no wish to wake when babies cried for milk, or smell traces of urine.

Likewise, they often had medicine they might wish to keep away from the their wives. Both sexes had private stashes of funds they hoped would stay protected. So the genders would meet to....ummm....engender the next generation, then retreat to their own quarters. But romance--whether among the married or unmarried--does not usually seek isolation. Getting away from usual responsibilities for a long holiday or a weekend may call for a hotel visit, and so here are some Valentine's thoughts on three different African hotels that create different atmospheres for lovers and spouses (one hopes, of course, that lovers and spouses are one and the same!). Have I been to all three? No, but doing this research has me itching for reservations. Here two kinds of love are considered--love of the architecture and the feelings it produces, and love of Africa. Get out your passport, and let's consider three varied experiences.....

ABIDJAN, COTE D'IVOIRE. THE PULLMAN EX SOFITEL HOTEL

This is an international chain of hotels, and its five-star amenities include a view of the Ebrie lagoon, conference halls, restaurants, a huge pool, a spectacular facade--even free Wifi. Interestingly enough, their website includes many happy Europeans and Asians wedded to their laptops, but not a single photo of an African. Ivory Coast has gorgeous textiles and arts produced by Baule, Senufo, Guro, and many other peoples. Perhaps they decorate the lobby, but their presence is nigh invisible on the website. You might be anywhere, on any continent; perhaps you are to forget you're in Africa.

Comfort and international standards are the intention; most African capitals include several showplace hotels like this, whose architecture is bland but impressive, that underline the importance and wealth of their guests. Could they bring a little more of the visibly African in? Intentionally or not, they underline the great divorce between cities and villages, wealth and poverty, and appear to deny the very cultures surrounding them. The hotel seems to be a bit of France set down in a vibrant capital. Of course, if the lovers would love to spend time in Paris without buying tickets, this is the perfect choice--as long as the air conditioner and the elevators work smoothly.

SUN CITY, SOUTH AFRICA. THE PALACE OF THE LOST CITY.

This curious five-star hotel was built as a resort with a theme-park premise. It pretends to be the remnants of a royal palace (whose palace? It resembles Eddie Murphy's Coming to America quarters; I expect to see rose petal scatterers moving from room to room) destroyed by an earthquake and reconstructed. Aspects of the invented myth are referred to throughout the compound, and the more credulous, ahistorical foreign visitor might well be confused into thinking the history books left out something fascinating. Of course, they did--Sun City was the notorious apartheid era invented town for foreigners to come, perform, and draw enormous crowds.

But enough of pesky history.This is architecturally odd indeed. The palace exterior is a kind of Arab fantasy, its towers and domes echoing structures from North Africa or the Middle East. Yet exterior elements remind us of that superior South African tourist draw--wildlife. Antelopes decorate the facade, as do ostriches. Great sweeping walkways flanked by elephants convince the viewer that royalty indeed must have trod these paths.

Opulence is key, as is fantasy Africa. Why fantasy? Real history or nature aren't good enough? Or the foreign firm that built the place just weren't familiar with it? Disneyfication or Disneyfiction have created a site worth seeing, however, and Africa is not the only part of the world to be its victim--the Atlantis Hotel in the Bahamas has a similar created mythology to excite its visitors. This doesn't repulse me elsewhere--Las Vegas style florid reproductions and reworkings of Venice, Egypt, Rio all have their sense of kitschy fun. But here I wonder--why isn't the real Africa good enough? I'll admit I'm dying to see this in person though. I sense it will feel like moving through some futuristic video game. But can one visit such a place without some exotic, simulated costume?

Let me watch Coming to America again first.

YANKARI GAME RESERVE, NIGERIA. WIKKI CAMP.

I've been here. Again and again. And I love it, though it's been a while. I think the rooms and restaurant have been updated, but I loved it even when the chalets were simple cement round houses with baboons encamped at the front door in the morning. When you brought your food supply and Star beer with you, because you never knew whether there would be food at the restaurant or not. The water really is this turquoise in the warm spring, and clear as can be, and wading height.

You can go with your sweetie there at night, the path and water illuminated yet dappled. Have a picnic (a baboon mother stole half a watermelon from my hand as I turned to give the other half to friends). Go on the truck for a photo safari that is no less wonderful for its lack of wildebeest and great grassy plains. I understand there's a museum there now.You can just relax and enjoy yourself, talking to Nigerians and folks from all over the world, swatting flies together and exclaiming over a distant lion or an elephant up close and personal.

You can cozy up in a bed that may not have a two-month old mattress or 400-count sheets, but after a day in the shaded water, strolling with bougainvillea blooming all round, having danced to music raucous and sweet, it has an atmosphere to it that's real and warm and welcoming. Happy Valentine's Day, Yankari! I love you best of all, and for always.